In today’s skincare world, we often hear about buzzwords like AHA, BHA,
hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, retinol, and kojic acid. These active ingredients
show up in serums, creams, and masks, yet few people really understand their
distinct functions — let alone how they might align with the wisdom of
Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM).
As a licensed acupuncturist and holistic skincare practitioner, I’d like to guide you through what these actives do for your skin and how they resonate with time-honored TCM herbs that support similar goals — naturally and holistically.
1. AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acids)
Function: Exfoliates surface dead skin cells to brighten and smooth skin.
It is found in glycolic acid (sugar cane), lactic acid (milk), and mandelic acid (almonds).
Skin Benefits:
- Improves skin
texture
- Fades
hyperpigmentation
- Enhances skin
radiance
- Helps with mild acne and clogged pores
TCM Herb Match: Bai Zhi (Angelica Dahurica)
Traditionally used to clear heat, brighten skin, and treat dull
complexion or hyperpigmentation. It gently promotes skin renewal like AHAs.
2. BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid) - Salicylic Acid
Function: Oil-soluble exfoliant that clears clogged pores and reduces inflammation
It is found in Willow bark (original natural source)
Skin Benefits:
- Penetrates
deeper into oily skin and pores
- Treats
blackheads, whiteheads, and acne
- Anti-inflammatory
TCM Herb Match: Huang Qin (Scutellaria Baicalensis)
This cooling, anti-inflammatory herb is used to clear heat and toxins —
ideal for red, irritated, or acne-prone skin, just like salicylic acid.
3. Hyaluronic Acid
Function: Humectant that binds water to the skin, keeping it plump and hydrated
Skin Benefits:
- Boosts moisture
retention
- Reduces
appearance of fine lines
- Gives a supple, dewy look
TCM Herb Match: Mai Men Dong (Ophiopogon Japonicus)
A Yin-nourishing herb that deeply moistens dryness in the body and skin.
Used in herbal formulations to treat dry, wrinkled skin and nourish fluids.
4. Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid)
Function: Brightening antioxidant that boosts collagen and protects against sun damage
Skin Benefits:
- Fades dark
spots and sun damage
- Enhances skin
brightness
- Promotes
collagen synthesis
- Fights free radicals
TCM Herb Match: Chen Pi (Aged Tangerine Peel)
Known to promote Qi flow and reduce damp stagnation, it brightens
dullness and sluggish skin tone. Its antioxidant properties parallel vitamin
C’s revitalizing effects.
5. Retinol (Vitamin A derivative)
Function: Accelerates cell turnover and stimulates collagen production
Skin Benefits:
- Improves
wrinkles and skin texture
- Minimizes pores
- Treats acne and
sun damage
- Anti-aging
powerhouse
TCM Herb Match: He Shou Wu (Fo-Ti)
A revered longevity herb in TCM known to rejuvenate skin and hair,
nourish Blood and Jing (essence), and promote youthful skin from within —
mirroring retinol’s regenerative power.
6. Kojic Acid
Function: Tyrosinase inhibitor that lightens pigmentation and events skin tone
Skin Benefits:
- Fades dark
spots and melasma
- Brightens dull
complexion
- Often used in
skin-lightening products
TCM Herb Match: Zi Cao (Lithospermum Root)
Used to cool Blood and detoxify, and traditionally applied for skin
discoloration and pigmentation issues. Like kojic acid, it helps bring clarity
and even tone to the skin.
Final Thoughts: Beauty with Awareness
In the pursuit of youthful, glowing skin, many people reach for products
with powerful ingredients — but understanding their purpose is just as
important as using them. When we combine modern skincare science with the
deep-rooted principles of Traditional Chinese Medicine, we can create a holistic,
intelligent approach to beauty.
Whether you're applying a serum or brewing an herbal tea, knowing why
something works empowers you to choose better for your skin and overall health.
Share Your Thoughts
Have you tried skincare infused with herbs? Would you be interested in
herbal facials or natural beauty treatments based on TCM? Let me know in the
comments or DM me on Instagram @naum.acupuncture 💕
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